Pet rabbit housing, environment and handling

Champaign County Humane Society


Cage
A metal cage with wire flooring of 14 gauge wire (1"x 1/2" square openings is recommended. A portion of the bottom should have solid flooring to prevent sore hocks and to provide a resting area. The size of the cage should be at least 24" x 24" x 18" high for the small- and medium- sized breeds and 36" x 36" x 24" high for the large breeds. You can use a towel (unless you have a pet that likes to eat towels), or piece of carpeting or wood for the solid area. The "synthetic fleece" cloth sold in fabric stores works well. It is washable and if the pet chews on it, there are no long strands of fabric that can get caught in the digestive tract. Newspaper can be used under the wire. Do not use aquariums or solid walled cages. Lack of sufficient air circulation has been directly correlated with an increase in respiratory disease.

Litter box
Rabbits can be trained to use a litter box relatively easily. Initially, you need to keep your pet in a small area, either a cage or a blocked off section of the room. Place a litter box in the corner (try to pick the corner your pet has already used). Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily. It is helpful to put some of the droppings in the box. You might also put some hay in the box to encourage defecation in the box (they usually pass stool while they are eating). You can reward your pet with a treat food whenever he or she has used the box successfully. Pelleted paper or other organic products make the best bedding or litter. These products are non toxic and digestible if eaten, easier to clean up than shavings or clay litter, control odor better and are compostable. Some examples are Cellu-Dri and Yesterday's News (which are paper products), Mountain Cat Kitty Litter or Harvest Litter (pelleted wheat grass products), and Gentle Touch (pelleted aspen shavings).

Temperature
Rabbits should be kept in the coolest and least humid area of the house. The best temperature range for a bunny is 60-70 degrees. If temperatures reach the upper 80's and beyond, and especially if the humidity is high, the potential for a fatal heat stroke is very real. On hot days, when air conditioning is not available, it is helpful to leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage, for a portable "air conditioner."

Household hazards
you are going to have your bunny roaming the house, make sure that you block off areas that your pet could get wedged in or escape from. Also watch out for electrical cords, which they like to chew on, carpeting, which they like to dig up and chew, and any toxic materials, such as rodent poisons, that your pet could get into. Get on your hands and knees and "bunny-proof" your home.

Handling
The main thing to remember is to support the hind quarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. A rabbit's backbones are fragile and can easily fracture if the animal kicks when the legs aren't supported. These injuries are usually permanent and frequently result in the euthanasia of the pet. Never pick up a bunny by its sensitive ears! Instead, grasp the loose skin over the shoulders or scoop up under the forelegs, then place your other hand under the back legs to lift your bunny from the floor. Work near the floor when first learning to handle your pet so that if he jumps out of your arms he won't fall far. It is useful to teach your bunny to lie on its back for trimming nails. Most rabbits will learn to relax in this position. Sit on the floor and put the rabbit on its back with its head just over the edge of your knees. Restrain the body firmly between your thighs, and place one hand over the chest to help prevent him from turning over. Talk softly and stroke its chest and abdomen gently.

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