Wildlife Rescue: Are You Really Helping?
Sandy was out for her evening walk and found several
children gathered around a nest containing 3 baby cottontail rabbits. The
children were petting the bunnies "I thought that the mother must
be dead, since she was nowhere in sight, and in any case, I have heard
that once wild babies have been handled by humans, the mother will no longer
care for them," recalls Sandy. " I thought the best thing to
do was to take them home and see if I could care for them until they were
big enough to make it on their own. After a day, they were lethargic, and
one had died. I called the conservation department and they told me that
it was illegal for me to keep the bunnies without a permit. They instructed
me to call a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. It was only after I spoke
with the rehabber, that I found out I had done everything wrong! She told
me that the bunnies were probably not even orphaned in the first place.
They were so cute. I just wanted to help them and I ended up reducing their
chances of survival."
Like Sandy, many people have good intentions, but
do the wrong thing because they lack good information about the wild animals
that share our neighborhoods. In this article, I will try to give you some
basic tips on how to determine if an animal needs rescue, how to rescue
it safely, and how to care for it until you can contact a wildlife rehabilitation
specialist.
When should I rescue a wild animal?
- Rescue if the animal is obviously injured, cold
to the touch, or weak.
- If you know for sure that the parent is dead. Wild parents
may leave the babies alone for hours at a time. When in doubt, observe
the babies from a distance or place two strings across the nest and check
to see if they are still in place after 4 - 6 hours for mammals and 2 –
3 hours for birds. A disturbed string indicates the parent has returned
to the nest in your absence.
- If a baby has fallen from a nest, either place it back
in the nest, or place it in a cardboard box with a bottle filled with hot
water to keep it warm. The parent will usually come to retrieve it or feed
it. If a bird’s nest has fallen, put it back up in the tree or a nearby
tree or bush. A small box or plastic food container can serve as a replacement
nest if necessary.
- Sometimes animals enter buildings, chimneys, window wells
or garbage cans, then can’t get out. Open the doors and windows, tip over
the garbage can, hang a heavy rope down the chimney or place a branch or
rough board into window wells, then leave the area. The animal will get
itself out if you give it a chance.
When don't I need to rescue?
- Bright eyed, active, warm, well fed orphans if
the parent may still be nearby.
- Healthy baby bunnies whose eyes are open. Even though
they may seem vulnerable, they have a better chance on their own than with
human intervention.
- Fully feathered baby birds. These are "branchers"
that are learning to fly. Place them in a nearby tree or bush. The parents
will generally feed them occasionally until they are getting along well
on their own.
- Healthy babies that have been touched by humans. It is
a myth that the parent will no longer care for them.
Safety:
- All wild animals are risky to handle. Not only
can they bite or scratch, they often carry parasites or diseases (including
rabies) that may be transmitted to human handlers or domestic pets. If
the animal bites you, it may have to be euthanized and checked for rabies.
Ffor its sake as well as your own, call for help if you are unsure whether
you can capture it safely without assistance. Adult mammals that are mobile
will require special equipment in order to catch them, even if they are
injured. Do not attempt to catch them yourself.
- Leather gloves can protect you from nips and scratches.
Most animals are best restrained by either scooping them into a box or
covering them completely with a towel or blanket prior to picking them
up.
- Speak quietly, in a low pitch. Think about how
you are going to capture or confine the animal before you do it. Place
yourself so that it will not flee toward a busy street or other danger.
If possible, prepare a pet carrier, box or paper bag for containing the
animal before you attempt to pick it up at all.
- Handle the animal as little as possible. Human, dog and
cat presence and noise is frightening to these animals and the stress can
kill them. Place the animal is in a dark, quiet environment.
Temporary Care
It is tempting to try to raise cute wild orphans
yourself. However, his is usually not in the best interests of the animal.
Providing the correct diet and housing is expensive and time consuming.
Remember that babies must be taught to recognize and catch natural foods
and must have large spaces in which to become accustomed to weather and
to exercise their muscles so they will be fit to support themselves when
released. In addition, if they are not properly socialized, they will likely
meet a quick demise upon release. Abnormal behavior causes others of the
species to react to the orphan with aggression. Normally, only wild animals
suffering from rabies or other nervous system diseases willingly approach
people. A human raised wild baby can easily become imprinted on humans
and seek them out when put back into the wild. If this happens, they are
likely to be assumed disease carriers, and destroyed. Licensed wildlife
rehabilitators have the knowledge and facilities to care for the animal
for the months it often takes to prepare it for a successful return to
the wild.
It is illegal to keep wildlife even for a few months without
state and federal permits. You could be fined $500 per animal. However,
you may need to provide some temporary care until you can get the animal
to a licensed rehabber.
- Do not to feed the animal until you have received advice
about the proper diet. Incorrect diets or feeding a dehydrated animal can
kill it.
- Place the animal in a container with dry bedding, such
as paper towels, newspaper, or towels with no loose threads that may entangle
feet or toes. Fresh grass or other moist bedding can chill the animal.
- Keep the animal warm, but not hot. A bottle filled with
hot water and wrapped in a towel will keep infants warm. Your first priority
after making the animal a safe, comfortable place to stay, should be to
call a rehabber
to get additional advice and to arrange for transferring the animal to
their facility. The wildlife
medical clinic at the University of Illinois Veterinary
Teaching Hospital (217/333-5000) and Wildlife CPR
in Decatur (217/963-6909, wildcpr@midwest.net)answer calls 24 hours a day.
Be prepared to transport the animal yourself, as most rehabbers are unable
to leave their charges to pick up animals from the finders.
- Consider making a donation to the rehabber who takes
the animal. It is likely to cost $50.00 or more to support the animal until
release, and the animal has no insurance.
Other Ways To Help:
- If you are really interested in helping to rehabilitate
wild creatures, ask about volunteering. Most rehabbers need the help of
volunteers.
- If you own land that might be suitable as a release
site, offer its use to a licensed rehabber.
- Discourage trapping and relocation of nuisance
animals. Relocation is hard on animals. Relocated animals often end up
leading a nomadic life trying to find and secure a new territory. They
must compete with other animals already living in and familiar with the
release area. Since most animal populations exceed the available desirable
nesting and feeding areas, the relocated animal is less likely to survive.
It is especially important not to trap during the spring and summer "baby
season" when a mother may be trapped leaving her offspring to die.
Wild Neighbors: The Humane Approach to Living With Wildlife (ISBN
1555913091) provides excellent advice on humanely co-existing with urban
wildlife.
For More Information:
For more information on wildlife rehabilitation, laws,
dealing with nuisance wildlife, or helping found animals, visit
the wildlife rehabilitation directory
Sarah Hurley - CCHS Humane Education Committee
